Cylinder grinding for Atco villiers 14/55
Since my last post, I have finished restoring my Atco villiers 14/55 and put it through its first cut of the season. This test indicated that I require the cylinder and bottom blade sharpening.
Can anyone recommend someone within the Glasgow or surrounding areas that would be able to under take such a task. Sending the cylinder south is an option, but a local specialist would be more convenient.
Thanks
Scott
Forums
Thanks to Wristpin for your
Thanks to Wristpin for your post.
Major issue this morning,the sole plate caught a hidden stone which has caused some damage.
The damage blade appears to be made of cast iron which I know is difficult to weld. Are these blades available or could a modern one be modified to fit.
Nice job on the restoration.
Nice job on the restoration. What wood did you use for the rollers and handles?
Bad luck with the sole plate. At that vintage, I think a spares donor machine would be the most likely source of a replacement.
As you are probably aware, there are firms which specialize in welding cast iron, but I have no idea of their charges.
Thanks for your comments, The
Thanks for your comments, The rollers are made of beech by a wood turner who sells made to measure items via ebay.
The handle are hard wood designed for hand files, again purchased via ebay.
Not a disaster as it's only
Not a disaster as it's only the blade that's broken, not the sole plate. Blades are still available as the design and hole spacing was carried right through to the De Luxes of the 60s and 70s , the Commadores of the 80s and 2000s and, I believe the later Balmorals .
Unlikely to be cast iron, but steel. Have to say though that I've never seen a normal bottom blade snap like that. Bent, yes but broken, no. Wondering whether it is a homemade replacement.
To the best of my knowledge Atco used Oak for their rollers and handles but Beech will be fine. Ransomes, among others, used Beech .
The clean snap makes me think
The clean snap makes me think it's more brittle than mild steel.
I have seen broken bottom
I have seen broken bottom blades, usually on golf green units that have hit a stud from a golf shoe and at least one of the cylinder blades got bent at the same time.
The OPs blade has probably age hardened, for as far as I know, most bottom blades were not made from mild steel.
In my original reply I was
In my original reply I was careful not to put the word "mild" before steel but then steel comes in many grades and alloys and "mild" covers a multitude of evils. However many domestic bottom blades can be cut with a hacksaw and drilled with a jobbing twist drill so they are not that special.
On some OEM blades one can see some discolouration along the front edge suggesting some form of heat treatment and some are definitely harder than others requiring more frequent dressing of the refacing wheel.
What sticks in my memory is the bottom blades fitted to the Japanese made Triple marketed by Saxon . Even in the 80s they were £ 75 a pop and so hard that a " green stone" had to be used on the refacing machine; likewise the bottom blades on the Japanese made Baroness machines - but they lasted " forever".
The Saxon triple was made by
The Saxon triple was made by Baroness and according to Saxon, you did not need to ever regrind them.
As for the most expensive bottom blade, I think that must belong to the bottom blades fitted to the outfront triple that Kubota made, last time I heard, a set of three was nearly £400.
Well I guess that 3 x £75 in
Well I guess that 3 x £75 in the mid 80s wouldn't be far off £400 in the 20s so that would appear to be the price of special Japanese steel. Not sure about "never need to be re-ground" - the three Saxon triples that we looked after for a particular customer certainly did!
I have looked after a
I have looked after a Baroness mower for a cricket club since it was purchased from new and I can safely say that the cylinder and blades are certainly made of better material than the average and sail through a seasons worth of wicket mowing easily. But we have not been brave enough to push it into a second season as they do not have a back up mower. Re the bottom blade, it is a shaver type blade and tends last for two regrinds before becoming too thin to risk using.
Thanks again for all
Thanks again for all suggestions.
A new blade was supplied by www.diyspareparts.com which fitted perfectly, they also supplied the countersunk 5/16 x 1/2 screws.
these parts are also available via www.centralspares.co.uk, but a trade account is required
these parts are also
these parts are also available via www.centralspares.co.uk, but a trade account is required
That is actually a Central Spares part number on the blade so you now know where diyspareparts get them from. Ideally, now that it's screwed to the sole plate it should have a skim.
Good to know!
Good to know!
So applicable OEM part number is F016101012 (51507 at Central Spares).
One Google search brought up
One Google search brought up half a dozen possibles.
here's one - http://www.scotts-lawnmower-services.co.uk/