ATCO 14” – Can’t get it to start after painting & restoration attempt

From the images it looks as though your machine  could be modern enough to have electronic ignition . If so, check that the kill wire is not earthing out at the back of the throttle plate. After that it could be a failed module.

If  it has points ignition , it will probably be a matter of just cleaning the points which can be done through the window in the flywheel but it's easier to do a proper job with the flywheel removed .

A better image of the engine will make it  easier to identify it and be more specific.

Thanks wristpin, I'm trying this out and I am also including a picture of the engine.  I can't get the flywheel off, any ideas.

Having a bit of trouble enlarging your image but fairly certain that the engine is a cast iron Suffolk of an age that would have points ignition . Looks as though you already  removed the inspection window cover on the flywheel so with it turned to around the seven o'clock position you should be able to see the points. Give them a good clean and set the gap to eighteen thou' . Hopefully you should then have a spark.

Should you wish to remove the flywheel be aware that the nut has a left hand thread so it is turned clockwise to undo. Ideally you will need to use / make some sort of a puller to help get the flywheel off its taper using the two threaded holes vacated by the  starter cup retaining screws; from memory, threaded  quarter inch UNC. It is not advisable to use a legged puller around the circumference of the flywheel.

I'm including another image of the engine. I have tried cleaning the points thru the flywheel wndow & I removed the flywheel and cleaned the points and surrounding area. I am not getting any fire to the spark plug.

I noticed that the mechanism the spark plug wire is attached to (the Coil and Condensor Assy) under the flywheel was wet. Is it possible that I could have shorted something out.

"(the Coil and Condensor Assy) under the flywheel was wet. Is it possible that I could have shorted something out."

Water is the enemy of electronics, especially magneto coils which are wound from very thinly insulated hairlike wire that corrodes easily and breaks or shorts out as a consequence.

When you say coil/condenser assembly are you referring to the whole stator - coil, condenser and points or to the later coils that had the condenser embedded in them so all you would see is a coil and points set?

The points ignition coils with a separate condenser are fairly robust (other than the very early ones insulated with the shellac impregnated tape) .

The combined coil/condenser units were not so robust but a bit of moisture should not be terminal.

Here's a few things you can try.

 First check that you actually have a magneto fault and not just a dodgy plug cap or plug. Try a new plug and remove the plug cap and unravel a paper clip, stick one end into the plug lead and wrap it around the plug terminal.

Still no sparK .  Mark the position of the stator plate in relation to the two hex head fixing screws and then remove it and put it somewhere warm to dry out. In the airing cupboard with the welding rods if you are fortunate enough to have one!  If it is a damp issue 48 hours should be enough to dry it out..

No luck?.  If you don't have access to anyone with coil and condenser testing kit the condenser is a relatively cheap item to change on spec'..

If all that fails you are possibly looking at a new coil  but I would try and find someone with a coil  and condenser tester.