help needed to get my mower going

Have you ever had it running? If so, and no work has been done on the engine since that time the timing won't have moved while standing !

If untouched since last run , clean  out any traces of old fuel throughout the system and try again .

What's the compression like?

the engine on your machine was designed when 2-stroke mix was made up using SAE 30 or  40 engine oil . If you are making up the mix using a modern thin synthetic 2-stroke oil  try switching to an "old fashioned" mix more suited to the age of the engine's plain bearings and minimal crankshaft sealing.

Is the air filter cleaned of debris, and the choke working as it should?

I think the points should be closing 3/16" before top dead centre, Does the fly wheel locate on a key on the shaft or is there a timing mark?

Hello Mike D.

Sorry it won't start or keep going. Anzani engines were a bit temperamental, but it seems that you have a Wipac Mag which is better than the Miller one previously supplied.  You say you have a spark, so the points are opening.  They should be set to about 0.012" and 0.016".  While they will produce a spark, set otherwise the intensity will be reduced because of the mag timing and the having a small gap retards the engine.

You say you get smoke but it won't run. Have you put oil in the bore to get a little more compression?   Usually they run best with a blue hue from the exhaust on full throttle  

The Wipac Mag usually had a cam bush which fitted the crankshaft with a woodruff key, which timed the engine and providing that woodruff key has been put back the timing should be OK. 

The timing is easily checked.  With the points adjusted correctly, using a multi meter or a battery and bulb connected across the points, turn the crank until the points just open, this being the time that the spark occurs.  This should occur when the piston is on the compression stroke and 3/8 inch or 9 mm before TDC  (Top Dead Centre) A couple of mm either way won't make a lot of difference, the engine should run and prove the timing to be correct.  If it isn't then check that the cam bush is on the right way round and that woodruff key is in place. It is possible to push the woodruff key out of the crankshaft when replacing the bush after an overhaul, The woodruff key also locates the flywheel mag on some applications as the mag has to be timed correctly as well, to get the optimum flux from the coil when the points open. 

The symptoms you describe could also point to the carburettor.  The old two strokes run on a rich petrol/oil mix, between 16 and 24 to 1 using  SAE 30 engine oil, so it settles out.  That's half a pint to a gallon. If the carb is left full after running, even when turned off,  and the spirit evaporates it leaves a layer of tacky oil in the carb float bowl and in the main jets, which will completely block the jet. Also, when the machine as stood for any time the aluminium inside the float chamber oxidizes and particles crack off the surface and can be drawn into the jet.

Strip the carb and clean it thoroughly, using a single strand of wire from a wire brush to clear the jet.  This practice is not recommended by the experts but I have practised it for over 50 years and used judiciously it works very well and does not damage the jet. Make sure nothing lurks in the jet and that the needle is clean and free from the oil residue,  

Also make sure the float levels are correct. The working level should be about half way up the chamber with the float in it, at which point the float valve will close.  I think you could use a 3/8 drill shank across the carb top lips, passing it under the float lever, and bend the float lever until the needle valve is just closed with the lever resting on the drill shank.

There is little else to go wrong so there is nothing to stop it going.  Presume the plug is OK as it fires.  The gap should be about 0.018, plug should be clean and the plug lead well insulated and dry. 

Best of luck.  Hope this helps and gives encouragement.  Anzani made some good engines. Don't give up and sell it. If you want more information let us know. 

many thanks for your reply. sorry for the delay in getting back to you, but not been to good as of late. i will follow your instructions to the letter and hopefully it will be running soon

kind regards,mike...

hi mark.. thanks for your input. as to the flywheel locating on the key, yes it does. again i will take all the info that has been given and hopefully it will go again. its been laying for sometime before i got it, and the feller couldn't tell me anything about it. so i assumed it was something he picked up to sell on again

regards,mike...

hi wristpin.  thanks for your reply, no i haven't ever had it running, I've cleaned all the fuel from the mower, as i said previous, it came from a feller that couldn't tell me anything about it. as for the 2stroke mix, yes i was using the more modern mix. so i will drain it all out and start a fresh.. buy the sounds of it with all this info it should be up and running soon. have you any idea of the age of this type of mower ???  regards,mike..

It is an  Easimow made by Rangers of Ferring , near Worthing in Sussex, the design subsequently being sold to British Anzani. The engine is a JAP. As for the date, I'm away from any reference books at present but I think that  there is info in on this Club site somewhere . At a guess, 1950s.

You may have to face the fact that it's just worn out - ring wear, bore wear and dragging in unwanted air around worn crankshaft bearings. With a two-stroke the integrity of the bottom end is as important as the top!