Help with a Suffolk
Hi all, I'm Sam from Stockport, new here and fast developing a taste for all things Suffolk ! I bought a Suffolk Punch 35s last summer and never really had it running right, then the ignition coil broke and in an attempt to fix it, I sheered the nut off the crank ... I didn't know they had an opposite thread Anyway, i learnt a valuable lesson .. I just recently bid on a mower listed as a Vintage Suffolk Lawnmower - non runner, parts or spares - on EBay, I won it for just £31.00. The chap delivered it and told me he has tried and tried to get it running but just cant, spent 10 mins yanking it round the yard "Tried everything, dunno whats up wit it" .. I said I'd fix it and we shook hands and off he went. I connected the spark lead ... started 1st time
Enough back story I think, can anyone identify the model please, and the blades aren't spooling up properly, is there a clutch in that housing ? Also, can anyone tell me what oil I should put in ( not sure the oils on that plate are still manufactured ) and are the carbs an easy clean ? Any tips would be greatly appreciated. I'd also like to sharpen the blades myself but am unsure how ...
Thanks again, warm regards, Sam.
Forums
A good example you have there
A good example you have there, if you follow the link below you should find some useful information in particular about the carb and it's adjustment.
http://www.oldlawnmowerclub.co.uk/sites/default/files/opmanual/Suffolk%…
As wristpin says SAE30 oil is the oil to keep the engine running sweetly.
Many thanks for your time, I
Many thanks for your time, I'll start to clean and tweak on the first warmer weekend !
Kind regards, Sam.
Welcome
Welcome
Mk7 Punch, I'd say.
Yes, there's a centrifugal clutch in the round housing on the drive shaft and the shoes can be stuck on their pivot pins but before diving in there check that the rotating blades are not set too hard to the fixed shear blade or that the chain is not too tight. **
The original oil grade spec would have been for an SAE30,, 10/30 or 40 but in a worn engine a straight 30 sold as " Lawnmower oil" will be fine.
The carburettor is pretty straight forward but if the engine runs and idles ok I'd leave it alone.
Sharpening is a job for specialist equipment .
** Edited after thought - or the cutting cylinder bearings aren't seized.