Atco 17" Lightweight

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Atco17
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Atco 17" Lightweight

My father recently gave me his 1954 lightweight, and after cleaning out the tank and line, setting the gaps and timing, it runs.

I was having some clutch slippage, and tried to make some adjustments in accordance to the manual.  Nonetheless, I wasn't too sure about what I was trying to achieve with those two nuts at the base of the clutch lever.  I'm hoping someone can offer an explanation. 

Paul

 

 

wristpin
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Atco clutch

Can you post an image? If it is the machine that I am imagining it has two clutches., the main, multi plate clutch between the engine and chain case, and the single plate traction clutch within the chain case.. 

A general pic of the machine and  one of the area around the " two nuts" will make it easier to offer advice.

Atco17
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Do these pictures help?  

Do these pictures help?

 

wristpin
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Atco clutch

Just the job.Earlier design than I was envisaging - just one plate clutch . Basically when the clutch is engaged you need a couple of postcard thicknesses of clearance between the thrust pads on the withdrawal yoke . So, with the hand lever in the drive position use the two nuts at the bottom to create and lock up that clearance. By the look of it your thrust pads are well worn. Not sure if they are still available but you may be able to rotate them to present a less worn face to the thrust plate to avoid metal to metal contact. The earlier pads were some sort of fibre material and the later ones  which were used until the early 80s were a hard plastic..

if you have clearance but still have clutch slip you will need to investigate the innards of the clutch. Easily done buy removing the engine. The friction plates may have worn or the screw retaining the whole lot on the shaft may have come undone allowing the plates to move away from the thrust rather than being compressed. Also, and depending upon the exact vintage of your machine, there may be a split pin holding a "drive square" to the clutch shaft shaft. They can wear/shear creating the same issue.

Have a feeling that the screw is left hand thread but it's a very long time since I worked on one of those!

i will dig out a parts illustration and post it later.

EDIT, Can't find an exact list for your machine but this one for a 12" will give you a general idea of the layout. I'd forgotten that there were so many variations!

https://www.dropbox.com/s/7xqg5gq924keavi/Atco%202%20Stroke%2012inch0001...

Atco17
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Thanks for this.  I will have

Thanks for this.  I will have another look at it in a day or so -- I see some grease in the area and am concerned that the friction pads may have become contaminated.  

Atco17
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Thanks for all the

Thanks for all the information.  I made some adjustments, and gave the clutch a bit of a clean with brake cleaning fluid.  It is working better, although it is certainly well-worn.  

I would be very interested if anyone knows where I could get a spare or perhaps have the friction plate re-shoed?

 

gtc
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friction plate re-shoed

@Atco17: "I would be very interested if anyone knows where I could get a spare or perhaps have the friction plate re-shoed?"

As would I.

Jon Cruse at The Mower Centre may be able to help with that info: 

http://www.themowercentrehailsham.com/

 

 

 

wristpin
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Atco clutch

Is your friction plate as per the parts list that I posted - steel with cork inserts?

Atco17
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Thanks for the link.  

Thanks for the link.  

Atco17
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Been away for a couple of

Been away for a couple of weeks and haven't had a chance to pull out the engine to have a better look at the clutch.  I fired it up yesterday, and the clutch seemed to be working a bit better after making an adjustment.  Wristpin, I suspect it is a cork clutch, but I'll have to take a close look to be sure.  

Broke the kickstart return spring yesterday.  Darn.

gtc
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"Broke the kickstart return

"Broke the kickstart return spring yesterday.  Darn."

Jon Cruse at http://www.themowercentrehailsham.com/ can supply you a spring.