Lawermower Identification

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MIKE1518
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Lawermower Identification

Hi folks,

i'm new to the group. My father recently give me an old lawnmower which he used as a garden feature for the past 10 years. My intentions are to do it up again and get it going for my own garden. From the look of it, it is likely to cost more to do it up than to replace it, but i'm happy to bring it back to live for the fun of it.

Absolutely everything is seized in it - no movement in anything. very badly corroded everywhere - to the point that i've broke  few bolts after spraying with WD40 and leaving for a few days. It has no ignition system at all (empty behind flywheel).

Despite all of this, i have taken the head of the engine block and the cylinder and pistion look fine, so i figure that they are the core of the unit. In addtion to this, i have rebuilt the Carb, which is now in working condition.  I haven't been able to turn the engine as it's seized in gear. Seemingly my dad remembers it running a long time ago...

what i was going to ask for help with was the following:-

1. Does anyone know what the make and model of this mower? I have looked all over the mower, but there is no 'L' shaped ID plate as seen on many. Also, the engine is a villiers (maybe a F.15?) but often when i see these online, they all look a little different.

2. Does anyone have an exploded diagram for this mower or engine?

3. if the bearings are seized, is WD40 the best product to get them moving?

in addition to the above, i would be grateful of any advice on were to get started with geting her going.

Kind Regards,

Micheál

  

 

Clive1997
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Hello, Welcome to the forum,

Hello, Welcome to the forum, you have certainly taken on a bit of work, the mower looks to be at Atco assume 24in cutting width, perhaps you could measure & let us know. As to date I assume late 50's - 1960's.

Whilst not my main area of interest there are plenty of people on the forum who can help with mowers from this era.

Personally if you are keen there are perhaps some more interesting & manageable restorations out there, depending on where you are located I may even be able to supply you with one for free, but please see what other comments & help come forward.

Image below of an Atco 24

Regards

 

Clive

wristpin
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Definitely an Atco, either 20

Definitely an Atco, either 20 or 24" with a Villiers Lightweight engine, possibly 150cc.  Quite why someone would have stripped out the magneto stator and then reassembled the castings etc is a bit of a mystery. Perhaps your Dad had two machines and used one as a parts donor?

As Clive says , they are not particularly rare and there will be far better examples to be had  but, of course , without the provenance. 

Edit

This is the engine - Villiers Lightweight

https://www.dropbox.com/s/v2kmc8pbqbotpeb/Villiers%20Lightweight%20horiz...

looks like your engine has an F15 type recoil starter grafted on to it!

and this is a similar chassis. Two piece rear roller for the 20" and three piece for the 24".

https://www.dropbox.com/s/01yi86gpyhlp3ss/Atco%20F16%20and%20A8%2020%20a...

WD40 is not a good dismantling fluid . Plus Gas is my favorite but diesel oil is very good

Seb
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bear in mind that WD just

bear in mind that WD just stands for Water Displacement, not suited to dismantly, as wristpin says, Plus Gas is very good, and has got a lot of things apart for me, if plus Gas cant shift things I usually reckon its time for a gas torch to heat and expand.

if it was mine I would probably look for a donor engine, either to transposition the entire engine or just the electrics.

Good Luck, and may it bring you many enjoyable hours

gtc
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The WD40 company has allowed

The WD40 company has allowed a litany of alleged uses for its product to spread far and wide for decades. About the only thing it doesn't do is cure cancer (... not yet, anyway).

In my neck of the woods, according to its MSDS, WD40 is more than 60% Naptha, aka White Spirit, aka Turpentine.

I avoid WD40 myself. There is usually a purpose-specific alternative to it, however mechanics these days seem to have been so brainwashed by the WD40 myth littany that they don't know any better.

A friend of mine repairs automotive electrical and electronic parts, including dash gauges, for prestige and vintage vehicles. He tells me that if a part comes into his workshop smelling of WD40, he tells the customer (usually a mechanic) that it's probably going to end up in the rubbish bin.

 

MIKE1518
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Joined: 07/08/2017 - 14:52
Folks,

Folks,

thanks for all your replies!!! a fountain of knowledge to say the least!!! 

I know that this one is very far gone, but a part of the planned restoration is enjoying the process. as i figure it, the machine is about 50-60, so if i can rebuild it i will know it inside out, and who knows maybe i'll get another 50yrs out of it!!!

Wristpin, the engine ID is spot on- and you've even figured out the recoil has been added at a later point!! i didn't know this, but when i took it off i noticed that there was a lot of 'spacer' nuts on it, and i thought to myself that someone has done a bit of a cowboy job on it!! That also explains why i couldn't figure out the exact engine type.

With regards the WD40, it seems that I too was being suckered there- i'm just going to start using that for cleaning. i've started using diesel now...

 

I will keep you all up to date on my progress!!!!

 

MIKE1518
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Hi guys, 

Hi guys, 

its been a bit, so I thought I'd drop you all a line on my progress on this lawnmower. 

Engine- turning almost all the way round, but seems the valves are stuck, preventing further movement. Still waiting for points and magneto to come up for sale on eBay too, before I've any chance of getting it started. 

Carb- dismantaled and reassembled- looking good. 

Drive chains- need replaced. Sprockets look fine, bearings all wreaked. 

One bit of help I could be doing with is how to remove the clutch drive shaft from the engine flywheel. I thought that the two claws with the rubber block between just came apart, allowing me to get the engine. But this has become a nightmare. Is there a trick to removing the clutch assembaly from the engine??? Demented here!

 

will post progress pics soon

hortimech
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There is a bearing inside the

There is a bearing inside the clutch rubber, you need to remove the bolts that hold the engine down, then pull the engine away from the clutch. You may have to 'jerk' it violently, but they should separate.

MIKE1518
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Gents, 

Gents, 

i wonder if anyone could help me with a problem I’m having- I’m trying to remove the crank shaft casing of a villiers lightweight engine. I’ve removed all the bolts, but it doesn’t seem to want to pry off. I know there is a bearing in the middle of the casing which the crankshaft runs through. But with it being aluminium I don’t want to break it. 

 

There me are four bolt holes around the bearing, is a puller needed to remove this?

 

i need is as the rods which push the valves up are seized in position...

 

mike

wristpin
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A bit of heat may assist with

A bit of heat may assist with both issues - just remember the lower melting point of the aluminium alloy. may be a hot air gun is a safer bet than a blow torch.

The maintenance manual shows a purpose made puller being used to remove the drive side crankcase cover but seems to suggest that the magneto side one can be withdrawn without the aid of any special tooling . I will scan and post the relevant pages later. 

Later!

https://www.dropbox.com/s/6w8hkrr7k14y8od/Villiers%20Lightweight%20overh...

MIKE1518
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Hi guys, 

Hi guys, 

i have some good news- the engine fired!!! Didn’t start but fired! But the fly wheel was attached correctly and came off!! Could someone tell me how to set the flywheel timing (no key-tapered shaft). The spark is good. Seemingly I put the piston at TDC, the wind it back 4mm and then stick flywheel on with the flywheel line lined up to the arrow on engine block? Then tighten up?

 

kind Regards, Micheál 

wristpin
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This may help