Ransomes Marquis

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Clemm
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Ransomes Marquis

Hi All,

 

New member here just looking for a bit of advice so hopefully someone can help.

Long story short I've been into tinkering and taking things apart but generally electronic.

Found this lawnmower in my grandad's garage several years back and decided to keep for a project, as always wanted to learn more about combustion engines and these engines are relatively simple (Briggs and Stratton 3HP) my plan is to remove each individual component then work on them.

That's where I've come unstuck already... Trying to remove the clutch and drive shaft! I removed every nut and hex screw but still am unable to remove from the engine.

 

Does anyone have any experience that can impart some knowledge that I'm missing?

Any help would be appreciated, thanks in advance.

 

Clem

wristpin
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Joined: 23/05/2012 - 22:09
Looks like you are heading in

Looks like you are heading in the right direction - the end of the shaft is just stuck in the spiggot bearing.   The heavy cast clutch flywheel will pull away from the drum but may need a bit of persuasion. Block of wood and a big hammer on alternate sides. If you can involve an assistant to hold the engine in line so the the hammer blows are not "wasted" swinging it around, so much the better. Even better two blocks of wood and two hammers!

Edit, sorry, just noticed that you've undone the outer bearing , suggest that you bolt it back up so as to have the shaft anchored to pull against .

An alternative, as it's a Briggs with a parallel shaft and the flywheel held with a key and grub screws it may be easier to release the flywheel from the engine and then drive the clutch shaft out of the spigot bearing from the engine side with a drift .

Clemm
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Thanks Wristpin, pretty

Thanks Wristpin, pretty simple really. I didn't want to go hitting things without asking first.

All done now and off the engine. 

Think I'll need a new clutch. I've strippef the engine down as much as possible as seen in the photos and stuck again...

- how do you remove the exhaust, seems to be no bolts but connection looks like a cog?

- how do you remove the clutch fly wheel from the shaft? Will need to clean down and re-paint at some point

- will need to clean down the fly wheel (contacts). Do you need a special tool to remove (seen a lot of references to a fly wheel puller).

All the parts will be degreased and cleaned down at some point but all the rust looks cosmetic so all parts seem in good condition.

Some of the gaskets look worn so may replace if one of you helpful folk could suggest anywhere that sells them.

Can anyone suggest anything else I will need to look at regarding the engine?

Apologies for all the questions, all still very new to me.

Thanks again,

 

Clem

wristpin
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Looks as though you have

Looks as though you have points ignition so you will have to remove the flywheel**. First you will need to unscrew (anti clock) the starter clutch. In the absence of the correct tool, some will knock the lugs with a block of wood and a hammer - but....! Careful application of large stilsons or some other improvised turning tool to exert steady controlled turning is better.

With the clutch removed resist the urge to hit the end of the crank extension to jar the flywheel off as any distortion will give you grief later. If you have a copper or soft faced hammer try sharp taps on the edge of the flywheel  - turning it as you go and it should free off.

On the other end removing the heavy clutch flywheel should be reasonably simple. Suggest removing the two grub screws and squirting in some Plus Gas, diesel fuel, kerosene or even brake fluid, in the hope that it will creep round between the boss and the crank. Not a fan of WD40!!! That flywheel is strong enough to take a two or three leg puller if you have access to one big enough. .

**You could avoid flywheel removal by adding an electronic ignition module such as a Meco or Nova . This can be fitted externally and just involves clipping the wire from the coil at the pint where it disappears under the flywheel and joining it to the module.

Meco unit fitted externally on a Villiers engine. Second wire is to a stop switch.

All the gaskets etc are available from any Briggs and Stratton agent. Before you go shopping find the Model, Type and Code numbers stamped into the cowling or may be the shield over the cylinder head. Those numbers identify the machine precisely even to the day and year of manufacture .

Exhaust . That "cogged" item is a lock nut on the muffler spigot that is screwed into the cylinder block. Try tapping it round (anti-clockwise) with a punch and hammer. With a lot of of luck it may unscrew the muffler with it . Otherwise you may be into GBH!

 

 

Clemm
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Joined: 19/09/2017 - 18:35
Hi

Hi

Thanks Wristpin, I ended up buying a 3 leg flywheel puller but have now removed clutch flywheel. Ordered new gaskets and started cleaning the parts down.

Can you advice where  the centrafugal clutch can be purchased? Or just the pads?

Has anyone used the pictured spray paint or suggest a supplier? Code is M-39 Ransomes Green. 

Thanks again

wristpin
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The clutch shoes with linings

 

  1. The clutch shoes with linings are probably still available from a  Ransomes agent such as Bartrams of Ipswich but I dread to think of what the price will be . The good news is that they frequently turn up on that popular auction site at around £20 - 30. Is that lining actually broken or has it just become detached - new rivets are cheap enough. Even if broken, one of the "wonder adhesives" such as Loctite Multibond  will probably fix it. 

  2.  

           Can't enlarge the pic of the paint aerosol enough to see the manufacturer or the size but £18.39 looks rather pricey for a typical 500ml can.

cwj123
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Smith & Allan sell tractol

Smith & Allan sell tractol enamel paint aerosol for ransomes green.I find this to be a good paint and colour match.ebay sells cans of tractol from Smith & Allan.I have tried other paint but have had better success with tractol so I stick with it.

Clemm
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Joined: 19/09/2017 - 18:35
Thanks CWJ, found the paint

Thanks CWJ, found the paint on Ebay. Checked on the official Smith and Allan website too, works out about half the price of eBay per can and a a pack of 6 works too be around £7.00 per can!

The lining has come off and is broken on one of the edges as pictured. Think I'll check eBay as looking around £160 for a whole new clutch shoe.

Did try to look just for the linings but unable to find the part number or anywhere that sells them.

wristpin
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If you cant find good used

Having trouble seeing the damage in your image but it looks as though it could be re- fixed - got to be worth a shot, but if not and  you cant find good used shoes on ebay try veteran motor cycle restorers etc  . They are quite used to relining brake shoes.

http://villiersservices.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_...