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Ransomes 18" Marquis Clutch removal.

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vanjim50 Thu, 01/08/2013

Good Evening,I have bought a new set of gaskets, from Meetens,to fit my BSA sloper engine on a Ransomes 18"Marquis.Not being remotely mechanically minded,i am looking for advice on how to remove the clutch and shaft to access the gasket which is,i think,the source of my oil leak.Does the information already exist amongst these pages,or does anyone have knowledge of the answer?On a different tack,i am so impressed by this site and the people who inhabit it.Keep up the good work.Regards Jim.

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wristpin Fri, 02/08/2013

Just a thought before you wade into th removing the clutch - make sure that your oil leak is not blow -by/vapour from the crankcase breather or from the valve chest cover gasket  - both a lot easier to deal with than removing the clutch/flywheel. However if you need to remove the heavy flywheel/clutch back plate that is a taper fit on the crankshaft it is best done with the engine off the machine, so remove the throttle cable or complete carburettor and remove the four hex head screws holding the engine to the chassis. Then use a copper or lead hammer to tap the clutch flywheel away from the drive shaft while pulling on the engine and rotating the flywheel. Hopefully this will separate the engine from the shaft  - possibly leaving the spiggot bearing on the shaft.If not you will need to remove it from the centre of the clutch flywheel to reveal a large hex head screw. Slacken but don't totally remove that screw.

Now to "break the taper" to release the flywheel.  With the engine on a stable firm surface you need to find a suitable metal "anvil" to put under the boss of the flywheel just lifting the engine and flywheel clear of the bench and taking the weight of both the flywheel and engine. Now with work gloves and safety specs you need a sustantial drift and lump hammer. Place the drift on the flywheel boss opposite the supporting anvil and smite it firmly with the lump hammer. Hopefully this will shock the flywheel from the crank but having left the screw in place it won't fall on your foot! If it doesn't release turn the flywheel through 90 degrees and repeat the process.

Once the flywheel has released from the crank remove the screw and take it off - heavy.

If the crank is rusty, clean it up with fine emery cloth and WD40/light oil, wipe off all traces of emery grit, undo the hex head screws holding the engine side plate in place and remove it. Job done.

If the spiggot bearing remains in the flywheel you will have to devise a way of extracting it which may not be easy unless you have or can borrow an internal bearing puller or find a friendly garage/motorcycle repair shop or even a mower repairer who will do it for you.

During all this the clutch shoes may have come off their pivots or you may have removed them. When reinsalling, the pivoted ends of the shoes should "lead" in the direction of rotation.It's not unknown to find ones that have, at some time, been incorrectly installed.

There are a couple of "wrinkles" that will make reassembly easier but one thing at a time. 

 

vanjim50 Fri, 02/08/2013

Thanks Wristpin for the advice.I shall investigate further. Jim