Suffolk Super Punch
I have recently started a renovation on an old Suffolk Super Punch 17" and would like to hear it run before I start on the chassis.
I have had the carburettor in bits and given the internals a thorough clean with carburettor cleaner. I now don't seem to be able to get a spark at the plug. I've had the flywheel off and cleaned up the points,reset them but still no spark. There is power there as I got a belt from the plug lead.
The magnet inside the flywheel did seem a little weak but I don't know how strong it should be or how to test it's strength.
I also noticed the elongated holes on the contact breaker backplate as I was refitting it and assume this must be for the ignition timing.
Could anyone advise on what could lead to the lack of a spark and also how to set the ignition timing.
Many thanks
Nicholas Booth
Forums
. There is power there as I
. There is power there as I got a belt from the plug lead.
If that’s the case, in a shaded place check for a spark off the bare end of the lead and bare metal. If there is one try a new plug cap/ connector and then a new plug.
Timing, 23 degrees , but not super critical. Mid way in the slots will usually get it running. Are there no witness marks left by the washers on the stator plate from before you dismantled it ?
Points do need to be “proper” clean. Pull a piece of clean paper through them after the heavy cleaning but hold them open to release it.Dont let them snap shut on the paper and trap fibres.
Hi all,
Hi all,
First of all, thanks to everyone who replied to my last post about the lack of a spark on my Suffolk Super Punch. It now runs like a dream! So now I've overcome that hurdle I would like to continue with the rest of the restoration. I am looking for a parts list but not exactly sure what the exact model is. I can just make out on the battered grassbox the words "super punch" and "dual drive". the engine type is 98G 14 and the chassis number is 9181 and the blade is 17 inches wide. I would really appreciate if anyone could point me in the direction of a parts list or any other information about this machine.
Many thanks
Nick Booth
Post an image or two . I’m
Post an image or two . I’m guessing that it’s an old cast iron chassis Punch but an image will confirm or otherwise.
Not Much left to see! I've
Not Much left to see! I've taken the blade to be sharpened taken. I Hope there's enough of it for you to recognise.
Thank you
Nick Booth
Yes, that’s the original cast
Yes, that’s the original cast iron machine.
Before you get too deep into the reassembly , assemble the rear roller into the chassis side members with the engine platform in place and check it for end float - side to side movement . If it has appreciable float, add another washer at the drive end. The reason for this is that any appreciable float can make it almost impossible to achieve proper adjustment of the rear roller dog clutch - one is trying to adjust to a moving target.
Thanks very much for that
Thanks very much for that information.
Do you know where I could get a maintenance and parts manual.
Regards
Nick Booth
Manual.
Manual.
This is about as near as you will get. Print it off as it takes up quite a bit of my free Dropbox allocation and at some point I may delete it to free off some space
https://www.dropbox.com/s/mpcs7lbcm8iqtba/Suffolk%20Super%20Punch%20Cas…
Got it!
Got it!
Excellent job, this is very helpful.
Much appreciated.
Nick Booth
First, do a search of the
First, do a search of the posts on here. It should help you visualise what you need to do.
That carb may need a good soak in an ultrasonic bath (or a bowl of warm water/detergent on top of a speaker cabinet blasting out your favourite tunes)
If you got a belt off the lead then it does sound like the coil/condenser and points are working, but the plug cap or plug could be duff.
You're going to need to take the flywheel off. Note: the nut of the end of the shaft is a left hand thread. Gentle knocking around the rim may loosen the flywheel or you can buy/make a puller
Points: must be really clean, as flush a fit as possible, and set to 18 thou gap.
Timing: you can mess about (as I did at first) using trial and error or you can download a timing disc image that can be stuck to an old CD. Then you find TDC, push the disc onto the taper shaft with 0 at the top and set it so the points open at about 20-24deg before TDC.. It may be further round than you'd guesstimate
After that the restoration gets really interesting.