Suffolk Super Colt won't re-start
Hi all,
I did the usual jobs of cleaning and checking points and making the HT cap (if it can be honoured with such a name!) less floppy and tarnished, all so I could get a spark and Lo! it started first time. Cut the rear lawn well enough (after raising it so as not to choke the cutter) and stopped it to empty the grass box, ready for the front lawn. But, pull as I might, I couldn't re-start it again. Then the Mrs. dragged me off shopping and after that it peed with rain, so it's still under it's cover.
Any ideas why it won't restart, when initially it started first pull and cut a lawn? Mind you, it has to stay on full choke all the time, so obviously the carb needs looking at from an adjustment point of view.
Cheers,
Martin
edited to say:- This is the first petrol mower I've ever had!
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It wouldn't run at all
It wouldn't run at all without more or less full choke anyway. I've just tried it again now it's cold and it still won't even puff with a firing. If the spark goes this quick it can be sold to someone fit enough to pullit over as I'm not sure I am any more.
The electric is shite, but at least it always works, even if the cable does decapitate the plants.
I knew this was a bad idea! Suffolk Super Colt, with new parts....25 quid. Norfolk/Cambs.
Martin
Hey, don't give up that
Hey, don't give up that quickly. Have you actually checked for a spark? If you've been running on nearly full choke, what state is the plug in? If the points have been properly cleaned and degreased you won't loose the spark " that quickly" The final stage of points cleaning is to get a strip of 80gm copy paper, hold the points open enough to insert it between them and then slowly draw it through but not out. Then release it by holding the points open. If you just pull it out they will grab the edge and you will end up with paper fibres between them.
It is not really as practical
It is not really as practical to check for a spark as people think. You can never be sure you have a good solid earth for the plug and you can't look steadily whilst hauling a yard of rope out of an engine!
And having, with help from son-in-law, ascertained no spark previously and done all the necessary faffing about to get one (with complete success), I really can't face doing it all again!
I take your point about what state is the plug in after a lawn cut on full choke, but I had to use it and full choke was all it would run on. Grass growth waits for no man!
Having always maintained older cars with points, coils, distributors and carburettors since my first car, a Triumph Herald 948, setting and cleaning points is not a problem for me. But the incredible faff to just get at them on the mower is not something I am prepared to do every time I use it! Being a modelmaker, I have a lot of nice wee tools and materials that I know how to use, too. I will see if the son will help out one darkening evening with the hunt for a visible spark, using your test for the daft blob on the end of the lead and for testing the plug itself and then decide if we can tolerate such a lack of reliability without being able to do anything about it. Since a recent mini stroke, bending much and especially kneeling, is a problem, hence my reluctance to keep something that needs such constant attention. I don't do problems any more if at all preventable! That's what sons in law are for, but we moved away a few miles! Doh!
Cheers,
Martin
Agree about that.Difficult if
Agree about that.Difficult if not impossible to see spark in daylight whilst cranking engine.You'll have to wait until after dark,plenty of that soon.Another dodge might be to remove spark plug & spin flywheel by hand.Haven't tried that yet on my machine but should work.
On o
Never had a problem with seeing the spark; obviously not in bright sunlight but in a shaded area. With the plug removed and no compression it's easy to pull the engine over while holding thr plug lead just clear of an unpainted area of the cylinder head or cowling. On points ignition systems flicking the flywheel over by hand can produce a spark but you have to get it just right . With electronic systems it's not so easy as typically they need 300 to 450 rpm to produce a spark.
If it presents a problem a gadget like this made up from available bits and bobs will make the job easier.
Tried to put the images at the end of the post but the combination of the forum software and the iPad defeated me!
Likely options
Likely options
You've flooded it . Turn the fuel off, open the choke, open the throttle wide and give it a few pulls of the rope.
It's lost its spark. Either the plug or the deluxe plug connector has given up or when cleaning the points you've left a bit of c**p in there that's now returned to haunt you. Take the plug out, remove the connector and with the bare end of the lead close to bare metal of the head or block pull the rope and check for a spark. No spark, back to the points. Got a spark, then try a new or " known good" plug . Still no spark, ditch the connector and replace it with a modified paper clip stuffed into the end of the HT lead and wrapped around the plug terminal.
Finally - get the electric mower out!