Rear roller on 14in Atco villers
Morning All,
Having completed my first restoration a couple of years ago, I was looking to purchase a 17in mower from a well known auction site, but I have noticed that the rear roller is split into two parts. ( Does this act like an axle differential to aid cornering?)
Can anyone confirm if the 14in should be the same, as my mower appears to be welded in place.
I have attached some images for reference
Thanks.
Scott C
Forums
Thanks again Wristpin, a
Thanks again Wristpin, a fountain of knowledge as ever.
Some of these Atco 14 s did
Some of these Atco 14 s did have a split aluminium rear roller along with several other luxuries, if that is the right term. See more recent thread in ' General Discussions' headed ' Atco 14 cylinder mower' as this has pictures . In addition to the items I mentioned I forgot to add the clutch is a metal cone clutch , rather than the single plate one with cork inserts which always seems to rattle noisily when out of drive.
Afternoon All,
Afternoon All,
I have just rescued a Qualcast 35s from the local tip due to the carb linkage being adrift!!!!
On returning home with it, I have noticed that the carb linkage spindle has come adrift and has either fallen into the crankcase or been lost in transit.
Having searched for an engine diagram to identity what is required, this is proving rather difficult.
Any advice would be grateful.
A fair chance that its within
A fair chance that its within the crank case. Interesting that the engine is secured with cap head screws; not something that I've seen before but maybe a "recent" development.
Item 19, I think
Beautiful restoration Scott C
Beautiful restoration Scott C, I have just embarked on restoring the first of 5 Atco 14s that I have, question I have is, what is the most common treatment given to the rear rollers on these mowers? I have one that is aluminium so just a clean up will make that look OK, is the rust finish normally removed from the steel rollers?
Geoff.
is the rust finish normally
is the rust finish normally removed from the steel rollers?
A light rub over with a Scotchbrite pad then a coat of a rust converter such as Kurust will leave a dark blue/ black finish that won’t deteriorate over time but will withstand a certain amount of wheeling a around.
Thanks Wristpin,Geoff,
Thanks Wristpin,Geoff,
Does this link perform a dual role within the crankcase?
Does this link perform a dual role within the crankcase?
Not sure that i hat I fully understand the question but all the mechanical parts of the Governor are contained within the crankcase and that little L shaped arm transfers the Governor action to the external linkage in your initial post. From memory, when properly installed it should have a little toothed retainer to stop it being pushed back in the crankcase .
The governor mechanism is mounted on the internal face of crankcase cover and when reinstalling that L arm its correct orientation should become apparent so that it’s curved end can bear against the Governor bobbin. Note that It is possible to instal it the wrong way round.
he original view of the engine that I posted was "generic" the following ones should be specific to your engine.
Governor components 33 and 34 etc
Governor arm components 38, 39, 40 etc. the toothed retainer 40 is shown as obsolete but its a standard part - you just need to find someone with an assortment.
Thanks again Wristpin,
Thanks again Wristpin,
I have the engine removed and ready for surgery, hopefully the parts are still intact.
Morning All,
Morning All,
Finally stripped the engine and recovered the parts.
One question that I have is regarding the position of the ring situated within the governor itself. As you can see, it seem just to sit there?
I have searched for an image to keep me right, but nothing is available.
Guess that its either 35 or
Guess that its either 35 or 32 in the image that I posted but cant do better than that.
I have no idea what that is,
I have no idea what that is, is it loose ? if so I would remove it. The governor is very simple, when the engine runs, centrifugal force throws the two weights out and the back ends of these push the top hat against the internal part of the lever, which operates the external governor linkage and shuts the throttle. That ring doesn't seem to be part of the governor gear assembly and I don't recognise it and I stripped and repaired a great many Aspera/Tecumseh engines.
Thanks Wristpin & Hortimech,
Thanks Wristpin & Hortimech,
The lever and this ring are the only components that were found within the casing, it fitted over the top hat section of the governor, but as you say it didn't seem to serve a purpose.
Unless this was part of a previous repair to the lever mechanism? Will reassemble and get it running.
Update to follow.
Morning All,
Morning All,
Its alive!!!!!
Great mower, cuts very well.
Thanks again for all your advice.
Fourteen inch machines of any
Fourteen inch machines of any make, particularly on cheaper machines, tended to have one piece rear rollers as the weight and width limited the danger of scuffing on the turns. Once the width exceeded 14” the risk of scuffing increased and the extra cost of some form of differential was justified .
Some manufacturers used the classic four gear diff but quite a lot of Atcos used what can best be described as a double spring loaded ratchet assembly which were a bit prone to seizing up.